Why Surfing can get you hooked?
Kelly Slater put it well: "It's like the Mafia, once you're inside, you're in, there's no turning back" or Aritz Aramburu: "Surfing is a drug and has us hooked"
What does that board have that hooks us?
These are some of the reasons that surfing can become an addiction:
1. Surfing is physical activity, you going to release endorphins, dopamine and serotonin, hormones responsible for happiness, pleasure and sense of calm among others, these hormones make us feel good and make you want more. We will be watching for the next wave, to relive that feeling of "Flow". We look for any excuse to take the board and go surfing, or not?
2. It is a sport that challenges you personally always want to improve yourself, whether you're a beginner or pro, each wave is different and that each wave will be a new beginning and new challenge, can compete with others but in the end the competition It is with yourself and the sea.
3. Make it easy to disconnect and reconnect, to be in the present; you, the table and the sea.
This is a good time to practice "being in the zone", to live this moment of "Flow" which has often been described by athletes, the time of maximum concentration and flawless execution at once. This feeling of contact with nature and Mother Earth that some consider spiritual. That moment where you can connect with the energy of the ocean and the energy I could convey confidence and motivation.
As Paul Walker says: "The Surf reassures me has always been a kind of Zen experience for me The ocean is so gorgeous, quiet and fearful The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave..."
4. cultivate relations with the sea and with others, you learn to respect and be respected, the real meaning of Aloha spirit comes from "Alo," meaning presence and "Ha" meaning breath. Aloha is a way of living and treating each other with love and respect. Its deep meaning starts by teaching us to love ourselves in order to love others.
Surf, for many, is addictive, challenging, motivation, fun .... Surfers often live to surf and organize their lives to cover this "addiction". And many people simply surfing makes them feel good.
How would you describe your relationship with surfing?